How I got to Biarritz – the pros and cons of flying RyanAir

If you’ve been following my blog, you’re already aware that I’ve been telling the story out of order. The next four posts will be no different. You’ve been warned. Xoxo.

RyanAir is a hoot.

I was making my connection from Dublin on the budget airline that every Irishman loves to hate. I kept an open mind. Their airport staff were friendly enough  (despite the fact that I attempted to check in 4 hours early).

Boarding the plane, it became clear that this was not your typical airline experience. It’s not just that there’s no assigned searing. No, RyanAir runs much like a concession stand at the movies. On the short hop from Dublin to Biarritz, France, the brusque, efficient flight attendant offered beverages for sale. At 10am, they offered not just canned drinks, but beer, wine, and hard liquor. None of it complimentary.

Everything was for sale.

Out came reading material. Newspapers were hawked. Then duty-free cigarettes, perfume, even jewelry. I remembered that people who travel, complain, but the pilgrim is always grateful. Practicing gratitude, however, doesn’t mean the pilgrim must get fleeced. I watched the revolving show with interest and kept my money in my pockets.

The man who created RyanAir, I learned later from a young former intern, is actually a really nice guy who takes good care of his employees. His entrepreneurial leanings, I mused, seemed to know no bounds. I wondered how his employees felt about using their flight time to hawk everything under the sun.

When the announcement came on that lottery tickets would be sold next, I couldn’t contain a quiet but incredulous laugh. Lottery, really? If anyone had addiction issues, they’d never get out of this aluminum vice trap still on the 12 steps!

The pilot tipped his wings as we descended into the posh beach resort of Biarritz, the sun shining over the hilly, green landscape. From there, I was to take a train to Saint Jean Pied de Port, but more surprises await.

What I came for – Getting to and out of Ponferrada

But I get ahead of myself writing about O’Ceibreiro.

I have to tell you about getting to – and out of – Ponferrada and finding myself all at the same time.

When I go back and read my journal, something strikes me again and again: I was ill almost the entire second half of my pilgrimage. I didn’t realize it at the time, but I as I read, I see repeated references to a strange cough, inexplicable lethargy, feeling cold while walking at top speed, and many other reasons your mom would have insisted you lay down and stay put.

Continue reading “What I came for – Getting to and out of Ponferrada”

The (O’Ceibreiro) hills were alive

If I’ve ever felt elated, it was the morning I stepped out into the crisp, dry air of the mountain village of O’Ceibreiro and walked along with the sunrise beside me, waves of valley fog below me, and the soft thud of my walking sticks on frozen ground.

They say enlightenment comes from mountain tops. I felt so darned happy. Present.

Continue reading “The (O’Ceibreiro) hills were alive”

My Fanta Obsession

image source: wikipedia

I had a love affair on the Camino. Don’t judge. When you’re walking all those miles you start to crave things.

We’d been walking all day through a forest and were ready to be done, but the town proved elusive. Over the crest of a hill, I spied a hopeful sign – a trailer converted into a roadside snack stand. I was thirsty, tired, and growing weary.

“Orange…” Said the voice of craving in my head. “Orrrrannnnge…”

Continue reading “My Fanta Obsession”

Insights from O’Ceibreiro

I don’t know if you’ve been paying attention to what the Pope is up to lately. He’s talking with common people. Blessing non-Christians. Reaching out to those in prison. He’s eschewing the traditional glitter and pompousness of his role to talk about the poor, the role of women in the Church, and what it means to be a follower of Jesus. He’s doing it in such a humble way, in true service, that he has the attention of more than just devoted Catholics.

Many people I met on the Camino wanted to talk about the new Pope. Lapsed Catholics, spiritual-but-not-religious, and non-believers spoke of him with such astonished affection, you’d think he were the Dalai Lama or other sage with a pure heart.

Continue reading “Insights from O’Ceibreiro”

A no-good, very bad day (and night)

You might have been led to believe that my Camino was a blissful walk with rose petals scattered on the trail and miracles at every turn. Maybe I’ve been telling it that way, but it wasn’t. Not every day anyway.

One day stands out that included walking in the rain on a long stretch of noisy road through a non-descript town by myself. I was damp and chilled. I was lonesome. I was craving a hot, salty bowl of soup, but at 10:30 in the morning, the Spanish are just sipping their morning coffee. I plodded on.

Continue reading “A no-good, very bad day (and night)”

Grapevines

The Camino is the community of people, total strangers, who come to look after and care for one another as they all move toward Santiago. One way this was manifest was the Camino grapevine. People talked about one another, never maliciously (in my experience), but out of concern and curiosity. Remarkable and funny stories about fellow travelers were traded like currency. To get someone’s story was a treasure.

The whole lot of us met up in Burgos – Marisela, Katrin, Muriel, Lies (leese), Meg, and me – mostly by happy coincidence. We shared a fun dinner in the plaza with a view of the huge cathedral as our backdrop. Wine and tapas and paella were passed around. We were honoring both Marisela and Lies who were both leaving the Camino for various reasons (both hoped to return). It felt like a warm sorority of women from all over the world and I adored being a part of it.

Continue reading “Grapevines”

More to come…

Hi sweet readers!

I’ve been out of commission for a while due to an emergency surgery last month. I’m doing so much better now, but it took away time from my writing.

I’ll be adding more soon as I’m re-starting my daily writing practice next week.

In the meantime, will you comment about what things you’d like to read about? I’d love some inspiration!

xo
Jen

Little old Spanish men

In some Native religions, God isn’t called the Father like he is in Christianity, but Grandfather.

I feel some holy envy of this designation because we all know our fathers to be fallible creatures. I think this sometimes makes people wobble in their trust of the Divine. Pray to my Dad? Mmm… no.

Grandfather, though… Somehow this extra generation, combined with how the later years add wisdom, reflectiveness, and stability, creates a warmer, more complete image of God that I can wrap my heart around.

Continue reading “Little old Spanish men”