Day 1: Saint Jean Pied de Port, France to (oops, not Orrison) Valcarlos, Spain

Waking up

After a sound and solid night’s sleep, and the memory of the previous days’ warm sunshine, I awoke to rain. I felt so excited to be starting at last, the damp skies seemed a tiny matter. Today my Camino journey would begin.

The theme for the day was discovery. I discovered two things in particular this day — what it was like to walk as a real pilgrim and what amazing people my fellow pilgrims were.

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A nourishing rest day in Saint Jean Pied de Port

Waking up

My first full day in France was a rest day. Almost vacation-like. I wanted to get oriented, rested, and heart-nourished before beginning the biggest walk of my life. That exact intention revealed itself and the day filled up with myriad blessings.

When the sun was barely up, everyone at the albergue was on a tear to get out. If you’ve read anything about the Day 1 route, you know it terrorizes many in anticipation. The facts: a very steep grade, the highest elevation on the entire route, changeable weather, and a remote 23km path with no rest stops along the way. For some, Day 1 to Roncesvalles makes or breaks the pilgrim (or at least dents the pride) crossing this mountain pass over the Pyrenées.

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Arriving in Saint Jean Pied de Port and getting right in the head

“You’re leaving tomorrow,” the Pilgrim Center volunteer half-asked, half-instructed me.

“Uh… Umm… No, I think I will stay in Saint Jean a second day before I start walking to Santiago. I haven’t slept for 24 hours. J’ai besoin de dormir.

He frowned slightly and said in French, “It’s good to get going right away.”

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Getting from Biarritz to Saint Jean Pied de Port (or how to be a noob)

In the Biarritz Airport, I recognized my first fellow pilgrims.

Being alone and far from home, I nearly grabbed that first girl I saw. She had short-cropped, sandy hair and a flushed, cherubic face that said “I spend time outdoors,” but I knew she was a pilgrim from her pack. I asked if she was going to Saint Jean. She was and told me there was an Irish guy outside waiting for the bus that would take us to the train. In a whirlwind five minutes, I suddenly had friends and direction!

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How I got to Biarritz – the pros and cons of flying RyanAir

If you’ve been following my blog, you’re already aware that I’ve been telling the story out of order. The next four posts will be no different. You’ve been warned. Xoxo.

RyanAir is a hoot.

I was making my connection from Dublin on the budget airline that every Irishman loves to hate. I kept an open mind. Their airport staff were friendly enough  (despite the fact that I attempted to check in 4 hours early).

Boarding the plane, it became clear that this was not your typical airline experience. It’s not just that there’s no assigned searing. No, RyanAir runs much like a concession stand at the movies. On the short hop from Dublin to Biarritz, France, the brusque, efficient flight attendant offered beverages for sale. At 10am, they offered not just canned drinks, but beer, wine, and hard liquor. None of it complimentary.

Everything was for sale.

Out came reading material. Newspapers were hawked. Then duty-free cigarettes, perfume, even jewelry. I remembered that people who travel, complain, but the pilgrim is always grateful. Practicing gratitude, however, doesn’t mean the pilgrim must get fleeced. I watched the revolving show with interest and kept my money in my pockets.

The man who created RyanAir, I learned later from a young former intern, is actually a really nice guy who takes good care of his employees. His entrepreneurial leanings, I mused, seemed to know no bounds. I wondered how his employees felt about using their flight time to hawk everything under the sun.

When the announcement came on that lottery tickets would be sold next, I couldn’t contain a quiet but incredulous laugh. Lottery, really? If anyone had addiction issues, they’d never get out of this aluminum vice trap still on the 12 steps!

The pilot tipped his wings as we descended into the posh beach resort of Biarritz, the sun shining over the hilly, green landscape. From there, I was to take a train to Saint Jean Pied de Port, but more surprises await.

What I came for – Getting to and out of Ponferrada

But I get ahead of myself writing about O’Ceibreiro.

I have to tell you about getting to – and out of – Ponferrada and finding myself all at the same time.

When I go back and read my journal, something strikes me again and again: I was ill almost the entire second half of my pilgrimage. I didn’t realize it at the time, but I as I read, I see repeated references to a strange cough, inexplicable lethargy, feeling cold while walking at top speed, and many other reasons your mom would have insisted you lay down and stay put.

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The (O’Ceibreiro) hills were alive

If I’ve ever felt elated, it was the morning I stepped out into the crisp, dry air of the mountain village of O’Ceibreiro and walked along with the sunrise beside me, waves of valley fog below me, and the soft thud of my walking sticks on frozen ground.

They say enlightenment comes from mountain tops. I felt so darned happy. Present.

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My Fanta Obsession

image source: wikipedia

I had a love affair on the Camino. Don’t judge. When you’re walking all those miles you start to crave things.

We’d been walking all day through a forest and were ready to be done, but the town proved elusive. Over the crest of a hill, I spied a hopeful sign – a trailer converted into a roadside snack stand. I was thirsty, tired, and growing weary.

“Orange…” Said the voice of craving in my head. “Orrrrannnnge…”

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Insights from O’Ceibreiro

I don’t know if you’ve been paying attention to what the Pope is up to lately. He’s talking with common people. Blessing non-Christians. Reaching out to those in prison. He’s eschewing the traditional glitter and pompousness of his role to talk about the poor, the role of women in the Church, and what it means to be a follower of Jesus. He’s doing it in such a humble way, in true service, that he has the attention of more than just devoted Catholics.

Many people I met on the Camino wanted to talk about the new Pope. Lapsed Catholics, spiritual-but-not-religious, and non-believers spoke of him with such astonished affection, you’d think he were the Dalai Lama or other sage with a pure heart.

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A no-good, very bad day (and night)

You might have been led to believe that my Camino was a blissful walk with rose petals scattered on the trail and miracles at every turn. Maybe I’ve been telling it that way, but it wasn’t. Not every day anyway.

One day stands out that included walking in the rain on a long stretch of noisy road through a non-descript town by myself. I was damp and chilled. I was lonesome. I was craving a hot, salty bowl of soup, but at 10:30 in the morning, the Spanish are just sipping their morning coffee. I plodded on.

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