Author: Jennifer Hofmann

On the Appalachian and Pacific Crest Trails there are trail angels who, in the driest stretches, leave bottled water caches for through-hikers. Or set up a barbecue at a common hitching spot and provide a hearty meal. Or a leave out a cooler with cold soda. Trail angels are volunteers who self-select to be of service.

In Spain, there are Camino angels. Although not nearly as deliberate or organized, they are everywhere. Sometimes they are locals, doing a kind turn to the pilgrim — from a friendly wave, or donativo snacks, to foot care and massage. Sometimes they’re fellow pilgrims, helping one another as they collectively struggle toward Santiago — lending a hand, dispensing ibuprofeno, or a kind word at just the right moment.

Continue reading “Day 11: Logroño to Navarette — A day of serendipity” →

“Courage doesn’t always roar. Sometimes courage is the quiet voice at the end of the day saying, ‘I will try again tomorrow.'” ~ Mary Anne Radmacher

Because there are no coincidences on the Camino — or in life — I chose this quote at random from a collection of inspirational “fortune cookies” for pilgrims at the albergue in Logroño. It was a fitting message for the day following debilitating pain which hobbled my body and my spirit.

I didn’t roar that morning when I awoke. I sat up in bed, grinned at the giggling French ladies across from my bunk, and tentatively put my tender feet on the floor.

Continue reading “Day 10: Torres del Rio to Logroño — Finding courage to try again” →

From my journal: “I’m not really sure I can do the whole Camino. I seriously entertained giving up today.”

But, let me tell you, there was nothing entertaining about it. From the comfort of my living room I can type these words with the confidence of one who knows how it all turned out. But as I scratched them with pen into my spiral-bound notebook on a cold, damp day, I had no such certainty.

Continue reading “Day 9: Villamayor de Monjardin to Torres del Rio – Defeat of de feet” →

And then, something in me cracked.

Maybe I was hungry. Maybe I was tired. Maybe I was just ready to have some space from the 3 musketeers we’d been since the beginning in St Jean.

I just know I felt angry.

The scenery and weather couldn’t have been more glorious. It was a breezy day, with the sun playing between the clouds. We’d stopped at the wine fountain at the Irache monastery to modestly fill our bottles with free red wine. We grinned with the sheer generosity and silliness of it.

Continue reading “Day 8: Lorca to Villamayor de Monjardin – Irache insights” →

When I woke up this morning, I didn’t know I was going to meet my next important friend on the Camino. Someone who would inspire and uplift me. But this is the gift of the Camino. You walk, and angels appear — if you are looking for them.

As we left early, the sun shone brightly and sparkled on everything. We passed the beautiful church in Muruzabal, noting a small tent set up on its lawn and a loyal pup keep watch outside. That was one intrepid pilgrim!

Continue reading “Day 7: Uterga to Lorca – Grace, serendipity, and angels unaware” →

The windmills of Spain were getting larger. We first glimpsed those ubiquitous, white monoliths of sustainable energy four days earlier when we’d crested the top of the Valcarlos pass. At the time, I never imagined I’d ever walk to them.

Today’s walk would be all uphill and I awoke fretting about the ascent, the heat, and the lack of available water. There would be no shade today. I filled up my backup bottle just in case we couldn’t find agua potable along the way. I donned my white silk shirt and wide-brimmed sunhat for protection from the sun.

As ready as I could be, I walked with my friends out into the day to see what awaited.

Continue reading “Day 6: Pamplona to Uterga – How to get rescued on the Camino” →

5 insights from the first week on the Camino

Unless you go back to the 12th century Codex Calixtinus, there are no official stages of the Camino, but to me it felt like there were chapters.

My own first chapter involved the big climb over the Pyrenées which gradually ends up in the city of Pamplona, a total of 6 days at the pace I walked. This chapter featured high spirits from the newness and novelty of being a peregrina, yet I was already starting to have insights.

Continue reading “Reflections on the first stage of my Camino (St Jean to Pamplona)” →

Exactly one year ago today, I put on my bright blue sneakers and began the journey of a lifetime.

Last year on April 16th I wrote, “My bag is packed. My heart is light. I am eager and excited to begin this journey.” I remember these feelings… and being profoundly aware of the unexpected coincidences and generosity that made my pilgrimage possible.

Continue reading “Taking my first step toward Santiago” →

Some days you wake up feeling crabby, completely unaware of what delights await around the bend. That would describe me on the morning of the 5th day of my walk.

Even when I’m not aware of it, “goodness and kindness pursue me all the days of my life.” Sometimes you just have to look for it.

Continue reading “Day 5: Villava to Pamplona – Postitively pampered in Pamplona” →

Starting out

I was getting the hang of this walking thing.

Four days in, the pilgrim’s morning ritual was starting to feel normal: get up, dress, eat, pack up, and follow the arrows. Even for an over-thinker like me, I started to really relax into and enjoy this simplicity of purpose.

Before we got going in the morning, I tested how my ankle and shoulder felt from yesterday’s fall. The painkillers that Katrin recommended helped a lot and although my shoulder felt stiff when I lifted my pack, I walked without limping.

Continue reading “Day 4: Zubiri to Villava – Momentum, Martin Sheen, and hairy spiders” →